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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar high-end names. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This honour has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.