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One was delighted to discover that the traditional Indian blend podi – a rough grind of intensely spicy, roughly ground spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be kind to say that I’m far less bold with chilli, so here I suggest chilli flakes instead. It’s an extraordinarily good marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Mint-Lime Dressing

You will need six to eight barbecue sticks (if wooden, let them sit in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook 30 min
Serves two people

Four hundred grams waxy potatoes, cut into 1.5-inch chunks
8 ounces paneer, cut into two-centimeter cubes
One tsp coriander seeds
Half a teaspoon fennel seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
One tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
One and a half teaspoon flaky sea salt, with more for serving
2 garlic pieces, skinned and shredded
1-inch piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
about 3 tablespoons mild oil
1 red onion, prepared and divided into eight wedges, then cut in half horizontally

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
0.35 ounces fresh mint leaves, minced
½ tsp flaky sea salt
100g natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for about 10 minutes, then drain them and leave to steam dry for a minute. In the interim, put the paneer cubes in a container with heated water for five minutes, then strain and blot dry.

Add the spice seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the seasonings, then crush or grind to a coarse mixture.

Place in a sizable container with the minced ginger and garlic, add the oil, then gently stir in the cubed paneer, cooked potatoes and red onions to coat. Arrange the vegetables and cheese on to six to eight metal or soaked wooden skewers, then move to a sheet pan and reserve for later – if desired, you can at this stage store in the fridge the skewers.

Stir all the sauce elements in a mixing bowl. Heat the grill to its top temperature, then grill the skewers for five to seven minutes on each side, until the paneer is crispy and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the fierceness of your grill, so keep an eye on them, especially when cooking the first side.)

Serve the skewers hot, sprinkled with a little more salt and the sauce on the side for serving.